If you travel to/from Piedmont via
Milan Bergamo (Orio al Serio) airport, and flight times permit, the opportunity to visit the
Venetian-walled hill city of Bergamo and its architectural and artistic
splendours should not be missed. Stendhal called it 'the most beautiful
place on earth'.
We travelled comfortably from
Casa della Fontana to Milan Bergamo
airport in 2hrs 15 minutes by (uncongested) autostrada, and
spent three hours in the City, including lunch, but only scratching the surface
of its many delights.
From the Bergamo exit on the autostrada,
or from the airport, follow the signs for 'centro' until you approach the
city walls through the spacious boulevards of the lower city. Here there are
well-signposted car park facilities (charge payable), from which it is a short walk to the
funicular railway (you can walk up the steps if you prefer). Funicular
tickets cost 1 euro each way in August 2006 and can be purchased at the
railway.
The funicular will deposit you in the
Piazza Mercato delle Scarpe (Shoe-market); if you leave by the Via Gombito,
your Tourist Information Office is a short distance along on the left hand
side.
Piazza Vecchia
The Piazza Vecchia is a delightful
ensemble of buildings and there are several restaurants and cafes where
you can take refreshment. The bookshop in the corner near the porticoed
staircase sells city guides in English.
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Campanone |
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The large bell in the Civic Tower once tolled the Venetian curfew at 10 pm. |
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Covered portico |
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Steps lead from the Piazza to the Palazzo della Ragione (House of Law) |
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Lion of St Mark |
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Wherever they held sway, the Venetians branded the major gateways and buildings with their logo (this one is a restoration) |
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Ready for luncheon |
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Quiet at the moment, a Piazza restaurant awaits the days' business |
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Piazza Duomo
Piazza Duomo lies just behind Piazza
Vecchia, and contains the wonderful baroque Colleoni chapel and Chiesa
Santa Maria Maggiore. There are no seats in the chapel (and photography is
not permitted), so you feel like you need to lie on the floor to try and
absorb the detailed artistry on the ceiling (this is not recommended
!).
There are however ample pews in the
adjacent Church where you can take a seat, just to get your breath back from the
sheer impact of the wall-to-wall frescoes, tapestries, oil paintings and
other decorative works.
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Colleoni chapel facade |
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Colleoni (1400 -1475) is the most famous Bergamask from the Venetian era, where he was condottiere (in charge of the armed forces). |
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Colleone chapel facade |
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He had a sense of humour - his coat of arms includes a pair of testicles (coglioni) |
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Colleone chapel detail |
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A pair of angels watch visitors come and go.
Colleone said his chapel would never be finished - these little embellishments
were added in 1912. |
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Santa Maria Maggiore |
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The austere romanesque exterior belies the artistic treasure troves within |
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City walls
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Porta San Giacomo |
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The most dramatic city gate, erected in 1592. Decidedly Venetian, it is made from pink marble. |
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Venetian walls |
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Construction of the (final) Venetian walls commenced in 1561. Many churches and secular buildings were demolished to make room; no compensation was paid. |
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Palazzo Medolago Albani |
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Late 18th century, the bas reliefs showing the liberation of Jerusalem were added later. |
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Bergamo basso |
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The walls afford a magnificent view of the lower city and of the Lombardy plain. |
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Bergamo's museums and galleries are closed on
Mondays.
E mail:
kerrie@anitalianadventure.co.uk
0039 0141 851 154
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