An Italian Adventure

Lake Maggiore

Local Destinations

Acqui Terme

Canelli

Nizza Monferrato

Monferrato Hills

Rochetta Tanero

Santo Stefano Belbo

Day trips

Bergamo

Genoa - the old port

Lake Maggiore

Lake Orta

Mondovi

Portofino peninsula

Turin

Riviera of Palms

More information ?

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We look forward to hearing from you.

 

© Kerrie Barker 2006

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Magnificent scenery, splendid villas and hotels, luscious lawns and gardens. The Italian lakes were part of the Grand Tour and have attracted writers, artists and visitors ever since.

With a surface area of 82 square miles, Lake Maggiore is the grand-daddy of the Western Lakes and just one and a half hours from Nizza Monferrato. The A26 autostrada (toll) runs close to the western shore, en route to the Simplon Pass. Compared with the UK, traffic volumes are low.

The small towns of Stresa and Baveno and the beautiful Borromean Isles that lie just offshore are particularly attractive. You can sample the highlights here in a full day. Take the autostrada exit signed to Baveno and curl down the access road to the lakeshore. Turn right and follow this, (now heading south), into the town.

Try and park by the Pier. 

Baveno

There is a good cafe right here, where you can refresh yourself after the journey. Cappuccino and cakes sound ideal, and you will enjoy a glorious lakeside view.

Lake ferries come and go, but there is no rush because there is one in each direction every half an hour in high season.

       

The ticket office (signs in English) is on the pier, and I suggest a stopping single ticket to Stresa, but before you go, check the departure times. Then take a moment to cross over the road into the centro storico, heading across the small square (Tourist Information Office) for the small church - the tower is conspicuous - whose environs are well worth a visit. Then back to the Pier for the ferry.

Isola dei Pescatori

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Your first stop is the tiny, romantic 'Fishermen's Island' which despite inevitable tourism has kept much of its charm. The distinctive traditional fishing boats in use today however have outboard motors. The island is a maze of narrow lanes and pathways, but you won't get lost. You can get a quick impression of the island between ferries - stay longer if it appeals.

We enjoyed a very pleasant dinner in the Verbana restaurant a couple of years ago.

Isola Bella

          

Another short hop takes you to the 'Beautiful Island', which indeed it is. Once also a  fishing island, it was transformed in the 18th century by the Borromeo family who built a palazzo and elaborate garden for their pleasure. Today, the pleasure is yours. Enjoy the view from the boat, or get off and have a tour (admission charge to house and grounds).

Stresa

If you are following this itinerary, Stresa is your last stop for the moment, and it's probably now time for lunch. There are restaurants for all tastes and afterwards lots of shops, some selling exquisite leather goods and gold jewellery, to see. 

When you're  ready, stroll back down to the lakeside and head north (towards Baveno) along the promenade, a popular stroll for lovers.

You will pass some of Italy's best hotels, with their stunning end of epoque facades, liveried staff and private lakeside gardens. As always, the trees, flowering shrubs and flower beds are a magnificent spectacle and there is continuous action lakeside. Last time we were here children were learning to sail in a flotilla of dinghies, kept safe by a whizzy inflatable acting as a sheepdog.

If you don't like heights, retrace your steps to Baveno, perhaps stopping off at an island you missed, but if you do, a leisurely stroll of 20-30 minutes brings you to the

Montarrone Cable Car

which is high on Bob's list of 101 unmissable things to do in Italy.

              

A return ticket to the summit at 1,491 metres cost 13.5 euros in June 2006, but unless you are a conifer enthusiast or mountain biker, I recommend a trip to the halfway point ('Alpino'), because this first stage is where the real visual excitement is. And the ride is smoother.

The car pulls effortlessly away from the station and glides above a small, blue-watered bay where colourful boats bob at their moorings. As you climb, a birds-eye view of Stresa and then the Borromean Isles opens up, becoming miniaturised as you gain height, until the effect is like watching a magic model of busy toy boats scurrying around. You also get an truer impression of the sheer size of Lake Maggiore, as the view down the long arm towards Swiss waters opens up.

There is a cafe at both Alpino and Montarrone, and an Alpine garden to visit (entry included) 300 metres from Alpino. The cable cars run every 20 minutes in season.

Carciano 

On returning to the cable car station you will see that you are close to the ferry pier at Carciano. In season, these ferries run a short triangular trip out to the two islands and back, so you can buy your ticket back to Baveno, and your car, changing over to the larger ferry at the island of your choice.

E mail: kerrie@anitalianadventure.co.uk

0039 0141 851 154

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